Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their younger generation are unwilling to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these narratives and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
